How to Be a Beginner Surfer

Surfing has existed in some form for at least a thousand years, dating back to ancient cultures worldwide. For one thousand years, humans have been called to the shore break, to participate in this timeless ritual, a process shared with the ocean that is as much a lesson in presence and meditation as it is in physical ability. The sport has been described as a dance, an experience, a rhythm. It can demand a great amount of effort, and simultaneously provide an inimitable peace of mind.

Surfing is alluring in its community-building effects, but the techniques, equipment, physicality, and even language helpful to join said community can all feel foreign, intimidating, and altogether deterring for newcomers. Being a beginner surfer is like cruising over the crest of a breaking wave to get out to the line-up beyond: the wave might feel insurmountable in all of its impending height and force. But then, in a moment, the whitewater is crashing behind you, and the ocean opens up into calm. Pushing through to get to the other side of that wave is the barrier between failure and success. At First Light Surf Club, we like to keep it simple. If you're getting into the water with a board in your hands, you are a surfer. Everything else will follow suit. 

Equipment

The first and most important element to catching some waves is understanding the necessary equipment. The only thing traditional surfing absolutely requires is a surfboard. The customary beginner board is a foam top, a board made of a softer, more lightweight material. Beginner boards are typically longer as well, with the standard size being 8 feet.

You’ll also need a wetsuit, something to protect you from the cold that creeps in after many hours in the ocean. Unless you're in San Diego during the warmer months, where the water is so warm you can get away with wearing a swim shirt or just a regular bathing suit, you almost always want to opt for a wetsuit. One of the many perks of this beautiful city we call home. 

Surf wax is also a helpful tool to increase the amount of friction on your board, helping you to get up and stay up. The right surf wax for you varies based on the temperature of the waters you'll be surfing in, so make sure to do some research. 

Technique

You'll need to sort out your stance on the board, regular or goofy. Most people tend to stand on the board with their left foot forward, a regular stance, while a goofy riders put their right foot forward.

The next step is to master paddling out. This technique is essential to surfing, as it will help you catch waves and orient yourself in the water. Having a strong paddle is important to becoming a skilled surfer. Lying on your belly on your board, make sure your head is elevated, and you pull the water back with force. Ensuring there are no gaps between your fingers helps to have a stronger paddle. This will make each stroke count!

The pop-up is another key element of surfing, the transition from lying down to standing up on your board. Once mastered, you're well on your way to becoming confident on your board. Once you catch some speed on a wave, you'll want to push yourself up from your arms at the same time you bring your back foot forward – one fluid motion into your standing position. Make sure your knees have a slight bend, and you'll be cruising!

Etiquette

Surfing etiquette can be tricky for beginners. It's one of those things that you mostly learn by doing, but it's helpful to know a few pointers before you get out there. Its goal is to keep the water safe and fair for everyone surfing. The key principles are to respect the person closest to the wave's peak. You might have heard the term "dropping in" before, which refers to cutting in front of someone to catch the wave. Try to avoid doing this. Always be respectful of local surfers and the environment around you, and try to surf to your skill level. Technique is important as it can aid you in this category, like being able to paddle out of other surfers' ways, and holding onto your board if you get swept by a wave. As long as you are aware of yourself, polite, and apologetic to others when you make a mistake, you'll do fine!

Attitude

For newcomers, the ocean can be a scary place. A lot of early moments attempting to catch a wave in the water are humbling. Even for strong swimmers, resigning to getting tossed by a few strong waves is part of the process. Failure is a part of the process. The real test lies in getting back up and starting again. Everyone you see out there in the line-up has been where you are now. Take some comfort in that and go find your place next to them.

Commit to practicing and be patient with yourself! If you keep pushing, you'll be a seasoned surfer in no time!