It’s been a while since we’ve had solid waves in San Diego, so my mind drifts back to this day in February 2020.
The story goes like this;
I’m at work in back-to-back morning meetings. The swell and winds were shaping up to be perfect, but all I could do was keep an eye on the live Surfline camera, watching the sets roll in. The waves were pumping, and each one felt like a missed opportunity. My buddies and I sending screenshots and texts back and forth, "you see that one?!" All of us tied up with work, all helplessly wishing we could get out there. My focus on work dwindled with every passing minute, and by late morning, I had mentally checked out.
Finally, after what felt like an eternity, my last meeting of the morning ended, and I raced to the beach, just in time to see a perfect wave rolling through as I arrived. I threw on my wetsuit, paddled out, and for a glorious 10 minutes, it was everything I had been waiting for.
But then, as quickly as it had come, the tide shifted, and the waves began to fade. I couldn’t help but wish I had made it out there sooner. But I was glad I could still get out at all.
There’s always a push-pull between work and surfing. I’m thankful for the stability work provides, but it stings when the waves are pumping and I can’t get out there. But reflecting on this makes me all the more thankful for the times I do get to paddle out and excited for some winter swells to soon hit our coast.
I'm sure a lot of people can relate.
📸 @surfline screen grab of unknown surfer 🏄♂️ who had a better morning than me 🧑🏽💻
